Why Certified Organic?

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The term “certified organic” cannot be used casually. In this country, there are strict guidelines set up by the United States Department of Agriculture (as well as private certifying agencies) in order to authorize a facility to use the term “certified organic.” And being part of the organic culture demands a significant commitment to the entire system.

In today’s market people use the terms “all natural,” “organic” and “certified organic” interchangeably, when there really is a significant difference. Only “certified organic” has been approved by an accredited 3rd party agency after a thorough study of the entire process of growing the ingredients and manufacturing the final product to ensure that all steps have been performed within the strict guidelines.

In order to qualify as “certified organic,” all products must adhere to the following standards:

• Crops must be grown without the use of artificial fertilizers or pesticides.

• There is generally a required conversion period to organic methods, being two years (for ground crops) or three years (for perennials).

• In order to break the cycles of pests and diseases, appropriate crop rotation is practiced for ground crops, which also helps to maintain soil fertility and structure.

• No post-harvest chemical treatments are allowed.

• Fertility is provided by natural organic manures, composts and fertilizers — the use of synthetic chemicals is prohibited.

• The use of genetically modified (GM) seeds or other materials is not permitted (non-GMO).

During the production phase, all organic producers must:

• Be certified by a recognized certification body and undergo a rigorous  annual inspection by qualified inspectors.

• Adhere to very strict standards that cover every aspect of food production, such as growing, packaging, processing and transport.

• Maintain fully audited records of every stage of production to ensure complete traceability from farm to table.

• Provide official certification numbers or logos of each certification body on the packaging, as this is the consumer’s guarantee of authenticity.

If foods are to be produced, the manufacturers must also be:

• Certified by an organic certification body.

• Keep all ingredients used in organic products separate from ingredients for use in conventional products at all times.

• Maintain detailed routine records, including cleaning and processing schedules, which must be made available for audit by certification inspectors at all times.

• The stringent controls associated with the production and processing of organic products ensure consistent adherence to guidelines set up by the recognized certification bodies.

The required 3rd-Party verification statement (as specified by USDA NOP) is shown on the back of every bag of certified organic Harrison’s Bird Foods (and Wild Wings).


The U.S. Department of Agriculture has put in place a set of national standards that food labeled “organic” must meet, whether it is grown in the United States or imported from other countries. After October 21, 2002, when you buy food labeled “organic,” you can be sure that it was produced using the highest organic production and handling standards in the world.

What does “Organic” mean?

Organic agriculture is an ecological production management system that promotes and enhances biodiversity, biological cycles and soil biological activity. It is based on minimal use of off-farm inputs and on management practices that restore, maintain and enhance ecological harmony.

“Organic” is a labeling term that denotes products produced under the authority of the Organic Foods Production Act. The principal guidelines for organic production are to use materials and practices that enhance the ecological balance of natural systems and that integrate the parts of the farming system into an ecological whole..

Organic food handlers, processors and retailers adhere to standards that maintain the integrity of organic agricultural products. The primary goal of organic agriculture is to optimize the health and productivity of interdependent communities of soil life, plants, animals, people and the environment in general.

Organic food is produced by farmers who emphasize the use of renewable resources and the conservation of soil and water to enhance environmental quality for future generations. Organic food is produced without using most conventional pesticides; fertilizers made with synthetic ingredients or sewage sludge; bioengineering (GMO); or ionizing radiation. Before a product can be labeled “organic,” a government-approved certifier inspects the farm where the food is grown to make sure the farmer is following all the rules necessary to meet USDA organic standards. Companies that handle or process organic food before it gets to your local supermarket or restaurant must be certified too.

What does “certified organic” mean?

“Certified organic” means that a non-profit, state or private certification organization, accredited by the United States Department Of Agriculture (USDA), has verified that products labeled as “organic” meet strictly defined organic standards.

Why is “certification” important?

  • Provides for product differentiation
  • Ensures product’s value
  • Protects consumers from fraud
  • Boosts consumer confidence
  • The National Organic Program requires certification of agricultural products making an organic label claim

What is the National Organic Program (NOP)?

The National Organic Program (NOP) is a new federal regulation created by the USDA to: – Develop and implement national standards governing the marketing of agricultural products as organically produced – Facilitate commerce in fresh and processed food that is organically produced – Ensure consumers that such products meet consistent standards. Visit the USDA’s official National Organic Program website

How can I tell organically produced products from conventionally produced items?

You must look at package labels. Along with the national organic standards, USDA developed strict labeling rules to help consumers know the exact organic content of the food they buy. The USDA Organic seal also tells you that a product is at least 95 percent organic.


Products containing GMOs (Genetically Modified Organisims) genetically engineered crops etc. can not be certified organic.

Does “natural” mean organic?

No. Natural and organic are not interchangeable. Other truthful claims, such as free-range, hormone-free, and natural, can still appear on food labels. However, don’t confuse these terms with “organic.” Only food labeled “organic” has been certified as meeting USDA organic standards.

Harrison’s, pet birds and organics?

Parrots are well known to be especially sensitive to environmental toxins, such as certain metals, chemical cleaners, and overheated plastic-coated cookware. Chemicals that normally are only irritating to humans and other animals can be extremely toxic to parrots. Yet little thought is given to the potential cancers, neurological problems, hormonal imbalances, allergies and disruptions of their fragile immune systems that may be attributed directly to pesticide residues on foods that parrots ingest or to the inherent dangers of commonly used pet food preservatives such as Ethoxyquin.

The EWG (Environmental Working Group) concluded that more than half of the total dietary risk from pesticides was concentrated in just 12 foods from the produce section of the supermarket: strawberries, bell peppers, spinach, cherries, peaches, cantaloupe, celery, apples, apricots, green beans, grapes and cucumbers.

Organic is the answer. The use of the USDA Organic seal on Harrison’s products designates that third party organic certifiers, accredited by The USDA have confirmed that Harrison ‘s Bird Foods meets the guidelines specified in The National Organic Program. This is the same USDA Organic seal that you will find on certified organic products sold at your local grocery store or natural foods market. Harrison ‘s Bird Foods are made from crops grown under strict organic specifications. The formulas are created, packaged and stored (at the HBDdistribution facility) under these strict specifications.

Organics and the environment?

Conventional farming techniques have incorporated chemical pesticides for many years. In the beginning it was believed that these pesticides were the only way to maintain high crop yields. Not much thought was given early on to the cumulative dangers of these poisons as they were continuously being fed into the earth. Pesticides can cause serious environmental problems. Many pesticides are highly toxic to aquatic life. Pesticide pollution can be driven by rainfall, with contamination of rivers and groundwater occurring from water draining off land or infiltrating to the water table. We are concerned about pesticide residues in water and the effects of pesticides on wildlife. The increased use of pesticides is one aspect of a general intensification of agriculture over the past fifty years. As a consequence of the increased use of pesticides, the number of farmland birds has declined. Evidence suggests that certain pesticides that find their way into water can interfere with endocrine (hormone) systems, for example affecting fertility and reproduction in fish, and leading to developmental changes.

The US Migratory Bird Copuncil estimates that of the roughly 672 million wild birds exposed annually to pesticides on U.S. agricultural lands, 10% or 67 million are killed.

Organic farming, or sustainable agriculture, is the first step toward moving away from this dangerous trend. Proper crop rotation breaks the cycles of pest and disease problems and balances the nutrient demands of specific crops. Alternative pest controls, such as certain insects or plantings, are incorporated into agriculture. The result is a safe, fertile and biologically diverse ground soil without the dangers of pesticide runoff.

Suggested online resources to learn more about organics/environment: The Rachel Carson Council The Organic Pages

For more detailed information on the USDA organic standards, visit http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop call the National Organic Program at 202-720-3252, or write USDA-AMS-TM-NOP, Room 4008 S. Bldg., Ag Stop 0268, 1400 Independence, SW, Washington, DC 20250.

Not Just Organic

In addition to following the strict organic guidelines specified by the USDA, Harrison’s has some high standards of our own to ensure the very best quality product for your bird.

• Premium WHOLE grains and other ingredients are contracted by HBD to be grown on fertile organic farms throughout North America.

• A third party organic certifier verifies the certification of the raw ingredients, making sure they meet the requirements designated under the USDA’s rules regarding organic certification.

• All grains and other ingredients are tested (via independent laboratory) throughout the manufacturing process for mycotoxins and rancidity.

• For the extrusion process, the ingredients are ground and thoroughly mixed. Then the various sized and formulated nuggets are extruded, toasted, cooled and then packaged under careful supervision.

• Our state-of-the-art packaging (the Harrison’s bag) protects the freshness of the products, which have only natural tocopherols as preservatives.

• The foods are shipped to and stored at the HBD Distribution Center in Brentwood, TN. Products remain in this climate-controlled environment until being shipped for customer orders.

Storing Harrison’s Bird Foods

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Storing Harrison’s Bird Foods

On all bags of Harrison’s you will find the following usage/storage suggestions.


Please see below for further line by line detail.

• Smell the product for freshness prior to feeding
Please check to see if food is within date (printed on bag). Food should smell “farm fresh” or like fresh grains.

• Squeeze all air out of the bag and zip it shut at the top.
Removal of air from bag is critical as it is oxygen and moisture that fuels the breakdown (going stale) of grain based foods.

• If the zip lock gets removed or damaged, fold the top over several times and close with a clip.
Unless you’re feeding birds in outer space or high atop a mountain, the air pressure inside and outside the bag should relatively be equal. This means air will not “push” its way thru a tightly rolled-down bag – so if the zipper fails, rolling-down and firmly clipping will equally work to keep contents fresh.

• Keep food in original bag. Do not repackage into plastic bags or containers.
The foil-lined Harrison’s bag is the best measure to keep contents fresh. Oxygen, the main offender in grain spoilage passes through plastic (bags, Tupperware etc). It does not pass through foil. Light can also damage nutrients. The foil liner blocks light as well. Store Harrison’s in a cool, dry place.

• Use contents within 6 weeks of opening bag.
This is regardless of printed dating on bag. If a bag is opened for use on Jan. 1, contents should be used up prior to Feb. 14. It may be handy to make a note right on the bag indicating what date the bag was opened.

• Purchase Harrison’s foods only in their original packaging.
We do occasionally encounter places that have replackaged food for resale. It is impossible to qualify freshness, dating etc. of these foods if they have been repackaged. Harrison’s will honor no claim arisen from repackaged foods. Purchase Harrison’s only in the original Harrison’s bag.

• Refrigeration after opening may help maintain freshness.
Refrigeration and/or freezing the foods typically slows the breakdown process of the ingredients. All above recommendations still apply to food that is refrigerated or frozen.
Never store Harrison’s in warm/hot areas or in direct sunlight.

• Bugs, bugs, bugs!
Bugs LOVE certified organic grains and they will find their way into any (even partially) opened bag. Some bugs will bore through a bag to access contents.
Don’t store Harrison’s next to bird seed in the pantry. To be certain you are not attracting bugs – store all of your grain based bird foods in the freezer.


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What Can You Do?*

If the hen seems ill or is producing eggs that look abnormal, it must be seen by an experienced avian veterinarian.† If the hen seems healthy but fits the description of a chronic egg-layer, there are some home treatment approaches that can be tried; however, the bird should be taken to an avian veterinarian† immediately if there are any signs of distress or illness.



Artificial or “dummy” eggs (available from many online stores) may be used as a form of birth control. If an egg is laid, it is replaced in the cage or nest box by a dummy egg that is similar in size, shape and weight as the real egg. Most hens shut down egg production after they lay the typical clutch size. Substituting dummy eggs at the upper end of the clutch size may cause even a prolific hen to stop laying.


Releaves (LINK) is an organic red raspberry supplement that works synergistically with continuous light cycle therapy but may also be used on its own. Rasp­berries have a hormone-like action that stops hens from further ovulations and may ease the passage of eggs already in the oviduct (Click here to read the Releaves Mode of Action). Take note of the bird’s egg-laying cycle, and for best results, Releaves should be started about 4 weeks prior to the anticipated date that the first egg would be laid or start of the breeding season. If this information is not known, Releaves may be started at any time.


Manipulation of the light cycle is a simple way to interrupt egg-laying. Leaving the hen in a cage exposed to continuous light for 3-7 days in a row may disrupt the circadian and annual rhythms to “reset” the reproductive hormones to a resting state. Most birds will rest with 3 days of continuous light; however, others may need up to 7 days.

The light needs to be about as bright as a room in the middle of the day. Bright white incandescent bulbs (approximately a total of 300-400 watts or 4200 lumens daylight compact fluorescent bulbs [ie, 95 CRI, >5500°K]) may be used in the room with the cage. A nest box or anything the bird could use to hide from the light should be removed from the cage. If the hen stops eating or starts to appear fluffed or stressed, the natural day-night cycle should be resumed.


While a healthy, certified organic formulated diet is ideal, changing a bird’s diet during egg-laying may be dangerous and must be done under the guidance of an avian veterinarian. For more information about diet conversion, click here. All high-fat and high-sugar foods, such as corn, grapes, apples, nuts and sunflower seeds, should be discontinued. If the bird is on a seed diet, switching to a lower fat diet, such as white or grey millet, may also be helpful.


A thorough assessment of behavior by a veterinarian or a qualified animal behaviorist may help determine the reason for the bird’s egg-laying. If a pet bird is exposed to sexually stimulating styles of owner interaction, has little competition for attention, and has no other options for interaction, it may likely become sexually active and perceive its owner as a mate. Examples of inappropriate pair-bond behaviors by owners include regular, prolonged cuddling or caressing of the bird, frequent carrying on the shoulder or inside of clothing, and sharing food directly from the mouth. Many owners are unaware that their interactions may be sexually stimulating, even when birds pant or demonstrate coital-like spasms in response to petting. Replacing this type of interaction with games and other non-physical touch interaction may be helpful.


Some birds may not respond to home treatments. A veterinarian can perform a physical examination and may recommend additional diagnostic tests to better assess the bird’s condition. It is not unusual for older hens to have a diseased ovary that has sparked the egg laying. Injections with leuprolide acetate or other hormones may be recommended. Leuprolide may need to be repeated multiple times to reach the desired effect and may need to be continued for the lifetime of the bird. Addition­ally, some birds may not respond at all to leuprolide, and there is also the possibility of side effects. veterin­arians may recommend Releaves and light cycle therapy in conjunction with injections or instead of injections.


In some cases, surgery is necessary. Removal of the oviduct (salpingectomy)requires an expert avian surgeon but may prove practical for birds that are chronic egg-layers with seemingly healthy ovaries. This surgery leaves behind the ovary but removes the oviduct and thereby breaks an important part of the hormone feedback loop that governs egg-laying. Thisworks very well; however, there is a risk that a hen may ovulate into its body cavity if the feedback loop continues to function (common in chickens).


Click here for help in finding an avian veterinarian and select the link “Find a Vet.”

 *Adapted from Excessive Egg-laying by Kevin Wright, DVM, Dipl ABVP (Reptiles & Amphibians), unpublished.


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Common Myths about Chronic Egg-laying*

MYTH: A hen needs a mate in order to produce eggs.
Some species require either the male courtship calls or displays or copulation in order to induce ovulation, but the majority of birds have reproductive cycles cued to the light cycle or photo­period. Single birds that do not have any avian companions make up the majority of birds seen in veterinary clinics with excessive egg-laying issues.

MYTH: A hen needs a nest area in order to lay eggs.
If the hormonal cycle is working, an egg will be produced whether or not there is an appropriate place to lay it. Eggs may be laid anywhere — on the bottom of cages, in food bowls or on stuffed toys. A designed nest area or “sleeper tents,” however, may stimulate egg-laying in birds that are already primed.

MYTH: A hen needs a special diet or extra calcium to lay eggs.
Many birds will produce eggs on startlingly poor diets. Malnourished birds are at higher risk of becoming ill, as the hen’s eggs withdraw vital nutrients. Calcium, fat, vitamin A and trace minerals are rapidly depleted in malnourished birds, which can lead to life-threatening problems.

MYTH: A bird that has never laid eggs is probably a male.
Even DNA sexing is not 100% accurate. The only way to be 100% sure of a bird’s sex is to have the bird surgically sexed via endoscopy.

*Adapted from Excessive Egg-laying by Kevin Wright, DVM, Dipl ABVP (Reptiles & Amphibians), unpublished.

Chronic Egg-laying

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Recognizing Chronic Egg-laying*

Many pet birds that lay too many eggs become sick. The most common species with chronic egg-laying disorders are canaries, Gouldian finches, zebra finches, budgies, cockatiels, small conures, cockatoos, and macaws, although any species may be affected.

   The clutch size varies depending not only on the family of bird, but also on the species (see expected clutch sizes for common species). For some hens, it is not unusual to double-clutch or triple-clutch in a year, while in other birds it is extremely rare to produce more than a single clutch. This variation in egg output by family and species makes it difficult to know when too many eggs are being produced in too short a time. In general, you have to know the breeding particulars of a species in order to recognize excessive egg-laying.

ARTICLE: Excessive Egg-Laying in Birds


What is Chronic Egg-laying?*

Egg-laying is excessive when a hen:

•  continues to produce eggs after reaching the upper end of the reported clutch size.

•  starts to lay more eggs several days after the first clutch is finished and before the first clutch’s last egg would have hatched.

•  lays one or more eggs outside of the normal breeding season, particularly if the eggs are laid at irregular intervals.

•   is producing eggs with one or more of the following: thin shells, abnormal coloring, undersized, oversized or misshapen.   – is steadily showing signs of illness (loss of appetite, labored breathing, change in stools, fluffed appearance, lethargy, unsteady posture, sleeping a lot on the nest rather than being watchful, or spending a lot of time on the bottom of the cage).

*Adapted from Excessive Egg-laying by Kevin Wright, DVM, Dipl ABVP (Reptiles & Amphibians), unpublished.



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*Day 7 Hand-Feeding Formula
(purchase online)


•For hand-feeding psittacine chicks until weaning.
•For chicks following feeding of Neonate Formula for selected parrots.
•For birds recovering from illness or injuries and birds that are losing weight during a diet conversion.
*Cockatiels should remain on Neonate Formula until Day 21 Persons inexperienced with hand-feeding should consult a professional before attempting.


For feeding directions please visit:



*Hulled Grey Millet, *Ground Hi Oleic Sunflower Kernels, *Ground Hull-less Barley, *Ground Yellow Corn, *Ground Soybeans, *Ground Shelled Peanuts, *Ground Split Green Peas, *Ground Green Lentils, *Ground Toasted Oat Groats, *Ground Brown Rice, *Tapioca Maltodextrin, *Psyllium, *Ground Sun-Dried Alfalfa, Calcium Carbonate, *Algae Meal, Montmorillonite Clay, *Ground Sun-Dried Sea Kelp, Vitamin E Supplement, Natural Trace Mineral Salt, *Vegetable Oil, Natural Mixed Tocopherols, Lecithin, Rosemary Extract, Vitamin A Supplement, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Niacin Supplement, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Riboflavin Supplement, d-Calcium Pantothenate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, d-Biotin, Thiamine Mononitrate, Sodium Selenite. *CERTIFIED ORGANIC INGREDIENT


Guaranteed Analysis:
Crude protein (min.) 18%, crude fat (min.)11%, crude fiber (max.) 4%, moisture (max.) 10%.




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A Complete Balanced Hand-feeding Food for Hatchlings
(purchase online)


• For hand-feeding psittacine chicks from hatching to 1 – 3 weeks of age.
• For young birds needing an easily assimilated source of nutrients.
• Smooth texture for acceptability by birds until they are eating on their own.
• A nutritional handfeeding diet for growth from hatching to fledging of passerines such as swifts, swallows, the large-sized flycatchers and warblers, shrikes, chickadees, titmice, larks, woodpeckers, jays, mockingbirds, robins, grosbeaks, song sparrows, towhees, goldfinches, finches and more.

Persons inexperienced with hand-feeding should consult a professional prior to attempting.


For feeding directions please visit:


Soy protein isolate, Hi-oleic sunflower oil, Corn starch, Sugar, Calcium carbonate, Potassium chloride, Di-calcium phosphate, Phosphatadylcholine, Vitamin supplement (vitamin A acetate, vitamin D3, dl-alpha tocopheryl acetate, vitamin B12, riboflavin, d-calcium pantothenate, niacin, pyridoxine hydrochloride, d-biotin, thiamine mononitrate, folic acid, zinc sulfate, manganese sulfate, copper sulfate, sodium selenite, calcium carbonate, vegetable oil), Methionine, Vitamin E.


Guaranteed Analysis:
Crude protein (min.) 26%, crude fat (min.) 14%, crude fiber (max.) 1%, moisture (max.) 10%.


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Complete Nutritional Support Formula for Sick or Injured Birds

(purchase online)


• For birds needing an easily assimilated source of nutrients.
•For medical and surgical patients that are recovering from pansystemic failure.
• For nutritional support of a bird during the transition phase of a diet change.
• For birds in which anorexia has slowed gastrointestinal emptying time.
• Also used as a handfeeding diet for growth from hatching to fledging of small insectivorous birds with an apparent inability to digest cornstarch. Species include bushtits, wrentits, vireos, wrens & smaller flycatchers and warblers

Persons inexperienced with hand-feeding should consult a professional prior to  attempting.


For feeding directions please visit: HarrisonsBirdFoods.com/Handfeeding



Soy protein isolate, Hi-oleic sunflower oil, Sugar, Calcium carbonate, Potassium chloride, Vitamin supplement (Vitamin A acetate, vitamin D3, dl-alpha tocopheryl acetate, vitamin B12, riboflavin, d-calcium pantothenate, niacin, pyridoxine hydrochloride, d-biotin, thiamine mononitrate, folic acid, zinc sulfate, manganese sulfate, copper sulfate, sodium selenite, calcium carbonate, vegetable oil), Phosphatadyl choline, Di-calcium phosphate, Methionine, Vitamin E.


Guaranteed Analysis:

Crude protein (min.) 35%, Crude fat (min.)19%, Crude fiber (max.) 1%, Moisture (max.) 10%.


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A Premium Certified Organic “Bake at Home” Bird Bread Mix(purchase online)
SEE: Adding Sunshine Factor to Bird Bread Mix


• Provides a healthy alternative for bird owners who choose to prepare their own bird food or those who give regular treats to their birds
• Can be offered instead of table food to birds that like to eat at family mealtimes
• Can be used to assist in converting birds to a formulated diet
• Can be hidden as a foraging reward
• Can be used as a vehicle for administering liquid medications
• Provides an easy-to-use transition for hospitalized or boarding birds until acceptance of the appropriate formulated diet
• Can be moistened and offered to birds that are feeding chicks as a soft food
• Is an excellent diet conversion tool – as documented here: EASY DIET CONVERSION VIA HARRISON’S BIRD BREAD


• May make up to 30% of the daily diet.
• If prepared with the addition of fruits, vegetables or nuts, Bird Bread should be considered a “treat” and fed only in limited quantities (no more than 10% of the daily food allotment when combined with all other treats).
• Can be served warm.
• Some flavorings (vanilla, maple) or herbs can be added as long as they do not change the nutritional content.



ORIGINAL: *Harrison’s Bird Foods (Adult Lifetime Coarse & Fine, High Potency Coarse & Fine), *Grey Millet, *Sweet Corn, *Baking Powder, (aluminum-free) calcium carbonate
HOT PEPPER: *Harrison’s Bird Foods (Adult Lifetime Coarse & Fine, High Potency Coarse & Fine), *Grey Millet, *Sweet Corn, *Cayenne Pepper, *Baking Powder, (aluminum-free) calcium carbonate
MILLET & FLAX *Harrison’s Bird Foods (Adult Lifetime Coarse & Fine, High Potency Coarse & Fine), *Grey Millet, *Brown Flax Seed, *Baking Powder, (aluminum-free) calcium carbonate *CERTIFIED ORGANIC INGREDIENT


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A source of live, naturally occurring enzymes for birds.(purchase online)


•To improve digestion in any bird under any condition.

•Uses can also include, birds with chronic pancreatitis, malabsorption syndrome, proventricular dilation, neonates with slow-emptying of the digestive system, geriatric birds, or birds under stress of illness.

•May be beneficial in Day 1-7 neonates being hand-fed.

•Also indicated in chronically ill or geriatric birds that seem to not be getting all the benefits from their food and for sick birds under stress of illness.

•For hand-feeding when formula seems too thick when the correct amounts of water and powder are used.


Dose and Administration:

Add a pinch of Avian Enzyme over hand-raising formula and allow to stand after stirring to achieve desired consistency. If still too thick, add more Avian Enzyme. Do not add more water than called for in hand-feeding formula directions. Add to tube-feeding formula for sick birds – one pinch per feeding mixed in formula. Add to dry food for recovering birds – a pinch (1/16 tsp) per meal.


Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast cultured on corn, wheat, rye, malt, corn syrup and molasses.


Guaranteed Analysis:

Crude protein (min.) 12%, Crude fat (min.) 3%, Crude fiber (max.) 7%,